A Hobo, a Joshua Tree and the Salton Sea

By Jed Nielson

Wow, what a trip. Who could believe in the middle of the Mojave desert, that there are enormous pilings of rocks, crafted perfectly for rock climbing. It’s a bit of a drive (close to 7 hours from Vegas), but when you measure it against the fun factor there is no comparison.

Joshua Tree climbing is on piles of granite ranging from beginner to expert routes. The routes have a variety of features for climbers of all levels. At night you can hear the coyotes howling not 100 yards from your camp. Its an amazing place to take a 4-5 day vacation. From camp there are a whole assortment of walls to climb. You can climb in the morning, come back to camp, have some lunch, take a small nap (for “us” old people) and go climb later that night.

One thing I will warn you about are the climbing hobo’s. Do not allow a climbing bum to lead you into a cave in the middle of the night without a head lamp to “build trust“. Ha – thats horse manure.

Joshua Tree was one of the funnest climbing trips I’ve ever been on. Take fun people with you to make this an amazing trip.

Difficulty: Most routes are “trad” climbing, so bring gear. Many routes are mixed rad/bolts with healthy runnouts. Few routes have chain anchors.

Location: South eastern California, 2.5 hours east of Los Angeles. 4 hours south of Vegas, near Yucca Valley and the Salton Sea.

Camping: There are several campgrounds. Hidden Valley is the preferred climbers campground with Ryan and Jumbo close seconds. Camping is first come first serve. We camped at Ryan Camp Ground, which was amazing. Your secluded from other camp grounds but not from your neighbors.

Hotel Accommodations: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. OR A TENT!!

Gas & Groceries: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. It’s a 45 minute drive into town, so best to bring everything in coolers and such.

Dining: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. There’s a great little Mexican Place in Yucca Valley called LAS PALMAS MEXICAN, they have a tasty cold green salsa.

Other Activities/ Attractions: Hiking trails and thing in town. Its a Desert, there ain’t much. If you have the time I recommend that you travel down to the Salton Sea to watch the sunset. Gorgeous!

Recommended Guidebooks: Rock Climbing Joshua Tree by Randy Vogel, available at the Maple Leaf Climbing Shop.

Other Resources: Google Joshua Tree rock climbing.

From the editor: Jed is currently advocating that George Strait be put on American paper currency, after all, he’s done a lot for us American’s.

A fine Christian boy with no affinity for such things, Jed swears that public affection, an unkempt climbing hobo, a six inch torch of perfect Venezuelan mota, an armed park ranger and running scared through the Mojave desert had absolutely nothing to do with his stay at Joshua Tree.

New Canyon Rock Climbing

by David Larsen, Ephraim Utah
photographs by Jason Stevens

I have climbed all over Utah from St. George to Logan. One of my favorite walls is just a ten minute drive from my house in Ephraim Utah called New Canyon.

Above: Joseph Withers works the crux on Burlap Doggie 510b and “ES” at age 11 nails the first ascent of Manos Arriba 5.4

New Canyon climbing is along a series of sand stone cliffs an the north side of the canyon, making it climbable most winter months. There are climbs for the whole family. Whether it is your kids first lead climb or you are a veteran climber just looking for something new, this place probably has what you are looking for. There are around 20 climbs ranging for 5.5 to 5.10c. It is only about five minutes outside of town, making it ideal for a quick trip after classes, but there are enough routes to make a day out of it.

Location & Access: At the corner of 300 East & 400 South in Ephraim take the Ephraim Canyon and follow it to the end of the pavement. Continue up the canyon .25 miles and take the New Canyon road on your left. The road quickly drops down and crosses a bridge at Ephraim Creek. Continue up the increasingly rough road. The escarpment will come into view on the left high on the sidehill. Climbing is found at three locations along the mile long escarpment, stop into Maple Leaf for a topo and route descriptions. The approach is only about an eighth of a mile long, but is steep. Watch out for Rattle Snakes in summer months.

Above: The author on The Jinx 5.9, Jacobs Playpen, New Canyon

Camping: Several established campgrounds are located in Ephraim canyon. rimitive camping is allowed anywhere on the forest.

Gas & Groceries: All amenities can be found in Ephraim.

Family Considerations: Easy access, easy to moderate ratings and well protected routes make this a good spot for families and beginners. The approach, however, is steep and the platform at the base of the routes is sloping and narrow.

Other Activities: Several excellent mountain biking single track trails are within ten minutes drive.

Local Attractions: EZ PZ Rock, The Death Star on Snow College campus, the smiley face on the Ephraim water tank and the Turkey farms.

Recommended Guidebooks: A topo is available at The Maple Leaf Company climbing shop.

Online Resources: Central Utah Outdoors on Facebook

Gear Rentals: The Maple Leaf Company, Ephraim

Editors note:
David Larsen listens to music by goofy old Irish men standing on one leg and playing the flute and he always holds his mouth the same way when he makes hard climbing moves.

Above: The author working Scent of a Bookmobile 5.9, the first free route in New Canyon

Notch Peak

I had personally never been west of Nephi, Utah let alone out in the West Desert. It is beautiful in its own desolate way. We got there in the evening and camped overnight at the trail head in lower Sawtooth Canyon. We made an early start, packed up our tents and gear and locked it in the car.

The hike is beautiful! The scenery goes through many changes as you ascend: from a sandy, dry wash to scrambling up rock walls, to a sagebrush/juniper-covered mountainside. The hike is 4.5 miles, with an elevation gain of 2,800 feet and it took our group 3 hours to summit – including a break at the saddle for a snack. At the rocky summit we were able to see from Nevada to the Bonneville Salt Flats to Mt. Nebo. An incredible view point, but the most amazing aspect is the peak itself. With a vertical drop of over 4,400 ft to the valley floor it is one of the highest sheer cliffs in North America. We had to lay on the edge to get a view of the drop and it was quite an adrenaline rush! While up there, wandering around, I happened to trip on an old stump and fell hard about a foot from the edge. It not only scared me to death, it ripped my new hiking shoe and scratched the lens of my camera. I promise you, I will never forget my hike up Notch Peak.

Difficulty: moderate, some scrambling up and down rock faces.

Location & Access: West out of Delta on Hwy. 50/6. Near milepost 46, turn north (right) on a graded dirt road. After 4 miles turn left (west) onto another graded road marked “Miller Canyon.” After 5.2 miles, turn left (at the bathroom/atv trailhead) onto a lesser-used dirt road that snakes off to the southwest. Pass the Behunin Cabin and camp in lower Sawtooth Canyon.

Camping: There is no official campground in the area. We camped by the trail head and it was nice. Just please remember to ‘leave no trace.’

Hotel accommodations: Delta

Gas & Groceries: Delta has all amenities and supplies.

Dining: Delta

Family Considerations: I wouldn’t do this hike with a child younger than 9 or 10.

Other Activities/attractions: A bristlecone pine forest can be found on the north-east slopes of the hilltop east of the summit ridge saddle. There is the possibility of rock climbing the face, for those of you that are into that kind of thing…

Recommended Guidebooks: Hiking, Climbing & Exploring Western Utah’s Ibex Country by Michael R. Kelsey. Available at Maple Leaf in Ephraim.

Online Resources: Google ‘notch peak hike’. There are lots of opinions out there, but I do have to say that ours are the best driving directions. The ones we found on the internet were not quite right. Additional info and details from my trip can also be found at hazardstats.blogspot.com.

Gear Rentals: Backpacks from Jason Stevens at Maple Leaf!

Signed: Kim Gordon is here.

Editors Note: Outside of Yosemite National Park, Notch Peak has the highest vertical relief of any cliff face in the lower 48 states. While the hike is safe and relatively straight forward, the North Face is an abrupt, dramatic and breathtaking drop to the valley floor nearly 5,000 feet below. Use extreme caution!

Greys Canyon of the Green River

Jason Stevens

I’ve floated a lot of rivers over the past three decades. Whether your a fledgling river rat or family and friends out for a weekend in the sand, sun and water, I can’t think of a better stretch of river than Greys Canyon of the Green River for mellow, laid-back fun.

Also known as the Green River Daily, this Class II section of river is located 7 miles North of Green River, UT/I70 on the southern edge of the Tavaputs Plateau, or Book Cliffs as it is commonly know. River runners looking to surf holes, boof rocks or shoot the big holes will find more excitement (and danger) on nearby Westwater or the Moab daily, both fantastic stretches of river in their own right. Greys Canyon, while it has exciting spots and plenty of adventure, is a package experience best enjoyed idly with family. The river is certainly a large portion of the fun, but the camping, a hot fire, good food, your favorite book and some sand toys for the kids complete this already sweet deal.

Location & Access: Green River is located on I70 in Eastern Utah.

Difficulty: Class II. High water increases the difficulty slightly, but it mostly just makes the holes bigger and more exciting.

Camping: A BLM campground with bathrooms is located at Swaseys rapid on river left. It fills quickly during peak seasons and sites are on a first-come first-serve basis.

Hotel accommodations: Numerous hotels are located in Green River town.

Gas & Groceries: Gas stations/C-Stores are conveniently near both I70 Green River exits. Groceries are available in town. During growing season, an assortment of locally grown fresh produce (primarily melons) are available at numerous fruit stands along main street.

Dining: Rays Tavern has been a River Rat magnet since who knows when. No river trip is complete until you stop there. Ray’s Tavern is in fact a tavern and they serve alcohol, but families and minors can be served in the pavilion outside.

Rays Tavern
25 South Broadway
Green River, UT 84525
435.564.3511

Green River also has a variety of fast food, including a Burger King, Arbies, McDonalds, Subway and much more.

Family Considerations: This area is fantastic for families. Bathrooms, picnic tables, tent pads, fire pits, BBQ grills and a sandy beach make for a kid (and parent!) friendly environment. The beach at Swaseys really is sand…not silt like most desert beaches. Your kids can waste an entire day there digging in the sand. The beach is a popular take-out for river runners, be be courteous and share the real estate. The size of the beach diminishes in high water season.

Other Activities: World-class mountain biking is available 45 minutes south-east of Green River at Moab, Utah. Rock climbing, hiking and Canyoneering and a short distance away in the San Rafael Swell. Buckhorn Wash is one of the most beautiful canyons in Utah and features an improved gravel road.

Local Attractions: San Rafael Swell, John Wesley Powell Museum, Green River State Park

Recommended Guidebooks:

River Runners Guide to Utah by Gary C. Nichols (ISBN 0-87480-725-5) available at The Maple Leaf Company
Whitewater of the Southern Rockies by Stafford & McCutchen (ISBN 978-0-9792644-0-5) available at The Maple Leaf Company

Online Resources:

USGS Real Time Water Data for Green River
Eddyflower
BLM Price Ranger District website

Gear Rentals, Equipment & Additional Information:

The Maple Leaf Company
450 South 50 East
Ephraim, UT 84627
435.340.0442