A Hobo, a Joshua Tree and the Salton Sea

By Jed Nielson

Wow, what a trip. Who could believe in the middle of the Mojave desert, that there are enormous pilings of rocks, crafted perfectly for rock climbing. It’s a bit of a drive (close to 7 hours from Vegas), but when you measure it against the fun factor there is no comparison.

Joshua Tree climbing is on piles of granite ranging from beginner to expert routes. The routes have a variety of features for climbers of all levels. At night you can hear the coyotes howling not 100 yards from your camp. Its an amazing place to take a 4-5 day vacation. From camp there are a whole assortment of walls to climb. You can climb in the morning, come back to camp, have some lunch, take a small nap (for “us” old people) and go climb later that night.

One thing I will warn you about are the climbing hobo’s. Do not allow a climbing bum to lead you into a cave in the middle of the night without a head lamp to “build trust“. Ha – thats horse manure.

Joshua Tree was one of the funnest climbing trips I’ve ever been on. Take fun people with you to make this an amazing trip.

Difficulty: Most routes are “trad” climbing, so bring gear. Many routes are mixed rad/bolts with healthy runnouts. Few routes have chain anchors.

Location: South eastern California, 2.5 hours east of Los Angeles. 4 hours south of Vegas, near Yucca Valley and the Salton Sea.

Camping: There are several campgrounds. Hidden Valley is the preferred climbers campground with Ryan and Jumbo close seconds. Camping is first come first serve. We camped at Ryan Camp Ground, which was amazing. Your secluded from other camp grounds but not from your neighbors.

Hotel Accommodations: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. OR A TENT!!

Gas & Groceries: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. It’s a 45 minute drive into town, so best to bring everything in coolers and such.

Dining: Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms. There’s a great little Mexican Place in Yucca Valley called LAS PALMAS MEXICAN, they have a tasty cold green salsa.

Other Activities/ Attractions: Hiking trails and thing in town. Its a Desert, there ain’t much. If you have the time I recommend that you travel down to the Salton Sea to watch the sunset. Gorgeous!

Recommended Guidebooks: Rock Climbing Joshua Tree by Randy Vogel, available at the Maple Leaf Climbing Shop.

Other Resources: Google Joshua Tree rock climbing.

From the editor: Jed is currently advocating that George Strait be put on American paper currency, after all, he’s done a lot for us American’s.

A fine Christian boy with no affinity for such things, Jed swears that public affection, an unkempt climbing hobo, a six inch torch of perfect Venezuelan mota, an armed park ranger and running scared through the Mojave desert had absolutely nothing to do with his stay at Joshua Tree.

New Canyon Rock Climbing

by David Larsen, Ephraim Utah
photographs by Jason Stevens

I have climbed all over Utah from St. George to Logan. One of my favorite walls is just a ten minute drive from my house in Ephraim Utah called New Canyon.

Above: Joseph Withers works the crux on Burlap Doggie 510b and “ES” at age 11 nails the first ascent of Manos Arriba 5.4

New Canyon climbing is along a series of sand stone cliffs an the north side of the canyon, making it climbable most winter months. There are climbs for the whole family. Whether it is your kids first lead climb or you are a veteran climber just looking for something new, this place probably has what you are looking for. There are around 20 climbs ranging for 5.5 to 5.10c. It is only about five minutes outside of town, making it ideal for a quick trip after classes, but there are enough routes to make a day out of it.

Location & Access: At the corner of 300 East & 400 South in Ephraim take the Ephraim Canyon and follow it to the end of the pavement. Continue up the canyon .25 miles and take the New Canyon road on your left. The road quickly drops down and crosses a bridge at Ephraim Creek. Continue up the increasingly rough road. The escarpment will come into view on the left high on the sidehill. Climbing is found at three locations along the mile long escarpment, stop into Maple Leaf for a topo and route descriptions. The approach is only about an eighth of a mile long, but is steep. Watch out for Rattle Snakes in summer months.

Above: The author on The Jinx 5.9, Jacobs Playpen, New Canyon

Camping: Several established campgrounds are located in Ephraim canyon. rimitive camping is allowed anywhere on the forest.

Gas & Groceries: All amenities can be found in Ephraim.

Family Considerations: Easy access, easy to moderate ratings and well protected routes make this a good spot for families and beginners. The approach, however, is steep and the platform at the base of the routes is sloping and narrow.

Other Activities: Several excellent mountain biking single track trails are within ten minutes drive.

Local Attractions: EZ PZ Rock, The Death Star on Snow College campus, the smiley face on the Ephraim water tank and the Turkey farms.

Recommended Guidebooks: A topo is available at The Maple Leaf Company climbing shop.

Online Resources: Central Utah Outdoors on Facebook

Gear Rentals: The Maple Leaf Company, Ephraim

Editors note:
David Larsen listens to music by goofy old Irish men standing on one leg and playing the flute and he always holds his mouth the same way when he makes hard climbing moves.

Above: The author working Scent of a Bookmobile 5.9, the first free route in New Canyon