photographs by Jason Stevens
I have climbed all over Utah from St. George to Logan. One of my favorite walls is just a ten minute drive from my house in Ephraim Utah called New Canyon.
Above: Joseph Withers works the crux on Burlap Doggie 510b and “ES” at age 11 nails the first ascent of Manos Arriba 5.4
New Canyon climbing is along a series of sand stone cliffs an the north side of the canyon, making it climbable most winter months. There are climbs for the whole family. Whether it is your kids first lead climb or you are a veteran climber just looking for something new, this place probably has what you are looking for. There are around 20 climbs ranging for 5.5 to 5.10c. It is only about five minutes outside of town, making it ideal for a quick trip after classes, but there are enough routes to make a day out of it.
Location & Access: At the corner of 300 East & 400 South in Ephraim take the Ephraim Canyon and follow it to the end of the pavement. Continue up the canyon .25 miles and take the New Canyon road on your left. The road quickly drops down and crosses a bridge at Ephraim Creek. Continue up the increasingly rough road. The escarpment will come into view on the left high on the sidehill. Climbing is found at three locations along the mile long escarpment, stop into Maple Leaf for a topo and route descriptions. The approach is only about an eighth of a mile long, but is steep. Watch out for Rattle Snakes in summer months.
Above: The author on The Jinx 5.9, Jacobs Playpen, New Canyon
Camping: Several established campgrounds are located in Ephraim canyon. rimitive camping is allowed anywhere on the forest.
Gas & Groceries: All amenities can be found in Ephraim.
Family Considerations: Easy access, easy to moderate ratings and well protected routes make this a good spot for families and beginners. The approach, however, is steep and the platform at the base of the routes is sloping and narrow.
Other Activities: Several excellent mountain biking single track trails are within ten minutes drive.
Local Attractions: EZ PZ Rock, The Death Star on Snow College campus, the smiley face on the Ephraim water tank and the Turkey farms.
Recommended Guidebooks: A topo is available at The Maple Leaf Company climbing shop.
Online Resources: Central Utah Outdoors on Facebook
Gear Rentals: The Maple Leaf Company, Ephraim
Editors note:
David Larsen listens to music by goofy old Irish men standing on one leg and playing the flute and he always holds his mouth the same way when he makes hard climbing moves.
Above: The author working Scent of a Bookmobile 5.9, the first free route in New Canyon
No comments:
Post a Comment